Blocks and ropes.
Ropes Cables.
Chains.
Blocks Block strops. Deadeyes
Hearts.
Fiddle block
Belaying pins.
Cleats
Thimbles.
Rigging screws
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I find it astounding
how many ship modellers will take almost infinite pains to construct
their model's hull, all the minute detail fittings and all the
intricate strops and lashings, only to ruin the rigging by using the
first length of thread they find,
in conjunction with ill-proportioned commercially-made blocks - perhaps
even made of plastic.
The manufacturers of model kits of otherwise high quality must take
their share of blame here. One well known modelling company currently
supplies
a total of three different sizes of block. ..It is not this book's
purpose
to tell horror stories and hurl brickbats, but we have to say to the
modeller working from kits that he should at the very least submit the
rigging plans and the materials supplied by way of thread and blocks to
a thorough going over. For reasons of rationalization commercial firms
nearly all tend to
make the rigging the lower masts and yards too light, and that
for
the topmasts and
yards too heavy. The beauty of a model ship depends to a considerable
extent on the correct gradation of rope thicknesses and block sizes,
which become thinner and smaller from bottom to top, following a
strict code of proportions.
Now, you have to obtain your thread somewhere. And
the prospect of making your own blocks and deadeyes (300 to 500 of
them)
plus 100 to 150 belaying pins -as would be needed to rig a three-master
-leads many a modeller to hope that commercial sources will be able to
offer
some help. So let us look at the possibilities: The "rigging thread" at
present offered by the modelling companies with the exception of the
Graupner
type -is not at all suitable for a high quality model. The best source
of
supply for model ropes is a bookbinder, a furrier ( skin processor) or
a
jeweler ( cords for pe chains). Crochet threads (needlework stores) are
also highly suitable. as they are available in a wide range of
accurately
calibrated diameter Take care! Never use synthetic threads (nylon
etc.),
and never use plastic blocks. Wooden blocks are offered by several
firms,
but they all have in common the fact that the number of sizes of block
offer
is too limited, and that their blocks are too angular for ships earlier
than about 1815; this means you will have to modify them all
(see BLOCKS).
Things look better with round deadeyes -thank goodness, for they
are almost impossible to make if you don't have a lathe -but this path
unhappily leads to a dead end if you are searching for triangular
deadeyes, hearts
and all the special forms of block -- sheet blocks, ramshead blocks,
clew-line blocks, fiddle blocks etc. -and the only way out is to make
them yourself.
Wooden belaying pins are often slightly too thick,
and need to be slimmed down, although brass belaying pins of good
quality
are obtainable. They can only be used for ships after 1830.
Blocks, deadeyes, cleats, belaying pins etc. were
almost always a medium to dark brown in colour (not black), which can
easily be
obtained by staining. One little tip here: thread the blocks, deadeyes
etc.
onto a thin thread and dip the lot in the stain. Then hang up the
thread
and let them dry out before using them.
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