Now fit
the KEEL, STERN TOST and STEM, in that order. The keel extends under
the stem-post, while the stem piece (s) will lap over the forward end
of the keel, Fig. 8. Fix these parts with pins and cement, removing the
pins later. The sternpost will have a curved upper end where it fits to
the counter. Try to join the members with a minimum of light showing
thru. If a part is cut too small, throw it away and start again.
When heavy timbers were needed for curves, such as around the
stem, shipbuilders would select a suitably curved or "kneed" tree,
called a crook, and saw it to width, thus having a woodgrain to conform
to the ships curve. On the model too this may be done, but it is just
as well to "piece up" the stem in two or more parts, Fig. 8, thus
reducing the cross-grain to a practical minimum. These joints (scarphs,
or scarphing) could be complex, but on 1/8” scale a simpler joint is
alright.
The HEAD KNEE of
early ships was quite deep, and requires further piecing to attain the
profile. Be careful to follow the plan closely on this profile, as for
some reason the headknee's shape attracts more than its share of
attention. Study its shape and functions carefully. Before tackling the
finer detail, it would be best to drill and cut the necessary holes in
the hull.
