If required, the bulwarks are thinned with a chisel. As a guide, mark with pencil the desired thickness. Fig. 2, then cut from the inside to this line. Slight cuts on the deck surface will not matter, since sheet planking will cover the deck at a later stage. Making the bulwarks thin enough to scale is something of a problem. If left too thick, the rail width will not cover the thickness of the bulwarks plus the timberheads. Where a thickness of 1/16th or less is indicated—more the rule than the exception — you may "cheat" by leaving a slight taper upward in the bulwarks thereby giving them strength with a minimum loss in appearance, Fig. 3.

Turning to the outside of the hull, the first step is to form a level surface along the center line of the hull; that is, a flat surface on which a center line may be scribed as a measuring guide during construction. Fig. 4. This may be done with a small plane. Then mark the centerline with a pencil. Also mark on this flat strip approximately the width of the keel. Now shave and fair the hull lines to meet the flats, giving the final shape of the outside. Use a wide chisel for this. A few passes with a file (not a rasp!) will identify and level unwanted bumps. Finish with a fine sandpaper.

Sanding calls for particular care. Do not round edges which should have angles. Often a modeller will view his over'sanded, rounded'line hull with satisfaction, not realizing that smooth rounded edges are anathema to the scale-hound. Keep the edges crisp and clean. This will take some doing, but the sharpness will be rewarding.

You will note that the height of the 'tween decks had little apparent relation to the height of a man, even the shorter ones of that day.