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Mondfeld " Historic Ship Models " |
SHROUDS. The shrouds are set up and adjusted by means of DEADEYES and
LANYARDS. Start rigging them with the foremast on the starboard side.
Seize (or bind) the first deadeye into a loop formed in the shroud.
Fig. 67. Reeve (or thread) the lanyard through the deadeyes (you have
already mounted the lower ones along the channel, Fig. 18.) according
to the sketch in each case drawing the deadeyes together the distance
given on your plan which may be anything from 3 to 5 deadeye diameters.
Temporarily secure the lanyard in a hitch around the shroud end. It is
finally secured by a hitch and a few round turns (you could glue this
in place).
Now run the free end of the shroud up through the
lubbers hole, over the bolster, around the mast and down again to form
the second starboard foremast shroud. Seiz;e a second deadeye into this
end at the same height as the first one and all subsequent deadeyes
similarly.
When there is an odd number of shrouds on one side, the
odd shroud is rigged on starboard, goes up and makes a full loop around
the masthead and down the port side to form the odd shroud on the port
side.
The STAYS for each mast are rigged after the shrouds. Give
the Shrouds and Stays a preliminary adjustment, leaving a "tail" on
each line to allow final adjustment later. The tail may be cut off just
before completing the model.
With the lower masts shrouded, stayed and aligned
you may now start mounting the yards, the lower ones first. Affix this
yard with its truss rope or iron, whichever is called for. Since this
yard was never raised or lowered, the truss gave swivel motion whilst
the slings and jeers carried most of the weight. The LIFTS were used to
steady and adjust the yard and BRACES trimmed it.
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With the lower yards rigged (we'll rig the braces last) move upward to
the topsail yards, and their rigging as described previously.
With all the yards mounted you may rig the braces working
from bottom to top.
The final bit of rigging will be the spanker BOOM AND
GAFF. Attach the boom jaws to the mast with the parral, hanging the
outer end from the topping lift. Now rig the spanker sheet (which will
hold it down) and adjust for height.
Reeve the peak halliard and throat halliards to the gaff,
bring the gaff jaws to the mast with a parrel and then rig vangs from
the outer end to steady the gaff.
Go over the rigging critically making adjustments, taking
the sag out of the lines. When you are satisfied with the tautness (not
too tight!) apply a touch of fast drying cement to the belaying points
and snip off the tails on the rigging lines.
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Contents
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Model
scale
Ship lines
The hull, woodworking
Holes in the hull
Gun ports
Decks, laying of
Rails and channels
Wales
Stern and galleries
Head and its rails
Figurehead
Rudder
Steering gear
Deck furniture
Windlass
Capstan
Hatches
Skylights
Hammock nettings
Painting the model, colors
Waterline
Rigging:
 The spars
Tops,
crosstrees, cheeks
Mast,
boom, gaff, yards
Lower
and upper yards,
halliards
The
double topsail
Lifts,
footropes, sheets, braces, clew garnets
Yard
bands
Making the spars
Ironwork
Bowsprit, dolphin striker,
the doublings
Top, construction
Shrouds, deadeyes, lanyards
Books & Tools,
recommendations
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