| See also: Wolfram zu
Mondfeld " Historic Ship Models " |
Fabricate the TOP in this order. Fig. 64:
First cement the CHEEKS to the flat surfaces
formed on the lower mast head, 64A. Fit and place the TRESTLETREES and
chocks between Fig. 64B. Next fit the CROSSTREES and the planking on
the frame thus formed, Fig. 64C and 64D. Finally, set on the BOLSTERS
which formed г well-rounded bed on which to set the shrouds over the
trestletrees. Fig. 64E. The topmast was prevented from dropping through
the hole in the top by means of a large wood or iron pin called the
FID, wedged into a square heel in the heel of the topmast. Each end of
the fid rested on a trestletree. Before stepping the mast on the model,
try fitting the topmast and cap to test whether the joined mast will be
in line as viewed from forward and the side. See Figs. 53D, E, F, and G
for the shape of tops at various periods.
Fig. 65 shows the arrangement at the doublings of the
topmast and topgallant mast, with trestle-trees and crosstrees as in
the top, except that as there is no platform (or very rarely) the
crosstrees don't have to be let in flush with the trestletrees, but to
preserve their strength are only partially let in. Note that the
crosstrees were originally each about the same length but with the
introduction of double topgallants (a little later than double
topsails) the foremast crosstrees were made shorter than the others in
the same way as the top itself became more triangular in form. About
this time also spreaders were introduced which were bolted across the
tops of the crosstrees at an angle pointing towards the mast. The
spreaders had cleats like the dolphin striker to take the long length
of the backstays and prevent their whipping about as well as giving
extra spread towards the masthead. The spreaders were usually iron
angles or bars towards the end of the 19th century. Figs. 65A & B.
The topgallant shrouds and futtocks were usually all one rope on old
ships and were lashed to bars across the гор of the topmast shroud,
Fig. 65A. From the middle 19th century there were usually short rope
strops on iron rods shackled to a band around the mast below and
finishing with a circular eye or small deadeye which had lanyards to a
similar fitting on the end of the topgallant shrouds. Deadeyes were not
so common as the bullseyes here.
RIGGING THE SQUARE SAIL MODEL — SEQUENCE.
Up to now we have stewed over the making of parts of
rigging. Now let us consider the assembly of these parts on a
square-rigged vessel. Experienced modellers agree that the best order
in which to rig a model is the same order in which the ship was
rigged — mast by mast upwards starting with the mizzen, the yards being
set on last. Certain carpentry such as making and fitting the tops and
topmast crosstrees can be done off the ship but set them up
progressively rather than as a "prefab" unit.
RIGGING LINES may be divided into two general types,
standing rigging, and running rigging.
STANDING RIGGING is that rigging which supports the masts
and yards. It is not often adjusted or run through blocks (pulleys) and
hence was often tarred to preserve it. Diameter varied according to the
load carried.
RUNNING RIGGING is rigging which runs through blocks and
is used mostly for adjusting sails to the wind. It is often handled and
is therefore used in its natural condition. Stain it with coffee or
burnt umber (japan color) diluted with turpentine.
|
|
|
|
Contents
|
Model
scale
Ship lines
The hull, woodworking
Holes in the hull
Gun ports
Decks, laying of
Rails and channels
Wales
Stern and galleries
Head and its rails
Figurehead
Rudder
Steering gear
Deck furniture
Windlass
Capstan
Hatches
Skylights
Hammock nettings
Painting the model, colors
Waterline
Rigging:
 The spars
Tops,
crosstrees, cheeks
Mast,
boom, gaff, yards
Lower
and upper yards,
halliards
The
double topsail
Lifts,
footropes, sheets, braces, clew garnets
Yard
bands
Making the spars
Ironwork
Bowsprit, dolphin striker,
the doublings
Top, construction
Shrouds, deadeyes, lanyards
Books & Tools,
recommendations
|
|
