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George F. Campbell "Jackstay" Page 37


See also: Wolfram zu Mondfeld " Historic Ship Models "

   PAINTING. Ship finishes were generally dull, tho a satin or egg'shell finish will be correct. Almost never was there a glossy surface of any extent. Colors ground in japan drier are very good for producing this satin finish. They are easy to handle, economical, and dry reasonably fast without hurrying the painting. There are fast drying paints (dope base) which are good, giving a flat finish, but which can be brought to a satin finish by additives.
   In the 18th and early 19th century rich colors were known but too expensive for use in quantities. Hence ships tended to be drab in color — earth pigments giving yellows, oranges, dull reds and black. In addition, a tarry varnish would become black with exposure. The Royal Navy, for instance, would allot certain amounts of black and yellow paint, and varnish to finish a certain ship. If the captain wished to put on a show, additional colors, as for stern decorations, stripes, gilding etc., the cost came from his own pocket.
   
   BOTTOM COLORS. From the 13th to 16th centuries it was common practice to cover the bottoms of ships up to the waterline with various mixes of preserving oils (such as turpentine), resin or pitch which would give a blackened appearance.


Contents
Model scale
Ship lines

The hull, woodworking
Holes in the hull
Gun ports
Decks, laying of
Rails and channels
Wales
Stern and galleries
Head and its rails
Figurehead
Rudder
Steering gear
Deck furniture
Windlass
Capstan
Hatches
Skylights
Hammock nettings
Painting the model, colors
Waterline
Rigging:
The spars
Tops, crosstrees, cheeks
Mast, boom, gaff, yards
Lower and upper yards, halliards
The double topsail
Lifts, footropes, sheets, braces, clew garnets
Yard bands
Making the spars 
Ironwork
Bowsprit, dolphin striker, the doublings
Top, construction
Shrouds, deadeyes, lanyards
Books & Tools, recommendations